We’re officially into double digits of quarantine weeks, and tomatoes have been a faithful companion in my kitchen now more than ever. I use them in everything from Nigerian stew to Italian sugo, Gigi Hadid’s creamy tomato sauce using tomato paste, salsa, and focaccia gardens, studded with sweet, halved heirloom tomatoes. Week in, week out, we’ve gone through fresh, canned, pureed, paste.
Often—for at least a few days, sometimes even a couple of weeks—we focus on one tomato sauce. When I say “we,” I mean my three teenage children, who find the best recipes on TikTok, Instagram, and from watching Anime—and then co-opt me occasionally into cooking it for them.